CoffeeWalk: San Miguel de Allende

November 10, 2023 · San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

I took a #CoffeeWalk to find the ever-elusive Mexican postcards. I found some tucked way in the back of a tchotchke shop. Some were bruised and torn and dirty from years of neglect, haha. I eliminated those, and anything with Frida Kahlo (girl is overexposed). Here's to hoping the chosen few make it to the US.

In my quest to find the postcards, I ducked into a couple of other buildings along the way. I love a good morning wander.

Colorful tables, chairs, plants, and hanging lights inside Flor de Altura café — Maybe the cutest café in San Miguel, Flor de Altura. The coffee was pretty good, too. I always think I'm going to sit and have a leisurely coffee, but I rarely do that. It was my great desire during the pandemic, to go drink coffee in a porcelain mug in a café. But it turns out what I really want to do is take a walk and sip on the go.

A small takeaway coffee cup held up in the leafy town square of San Miguel de Allende — I find myself visiting the town square almost daily. It is the heart and soul of San Miguel and there's always something to see. In this case, look how tiny my coffee is. Most places don't offer a lot of sizes.

A group of cowboys riding horses down a sunny street in San Miguel de Allende — As I said, there's always something to see from the square. In this case, a bunch of cowboys riding by on horses. I don't know why.

Cowboys riding horses along a cobblestone street past white and red buildings

Cowboys riding past pedestrians and storefronts on a sunny San Miguel street — Cowboys and Starbucks. Say what you will about Starbucks. I know many people don't like them. But for me, when travel has me frayed, they serve as a friendly comfort zone of Wi-Fi, familiarity and, occasionally, English. Plus clean bathrooms! I took refuge in a Starbucks once in Peru after a rough day of losing my bank card in an ATM and dealing with that chaos. It was just what I needed to regroup and reset.

Cowboys riding past the pink towers of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

Ornate stone facade of the Museo Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal — I was admiring the doors on this building and realized it's a free museum. I love poking around historic buildings. So I will take any opportunity. And I usually enjoy the art as well.

Tall carved wooden door standing open in an ornate stone museum entrance — Museo Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal.

Stacy taking a mirror selfie inside a lacy metal art installation — I feel like something's missing inside. Fun with installation art.

Stacy standing inside a perforated metal art installation

Museum gallery filled with framed paintings of the Virgin of Guadalupe — The Virgin of Guadalupe. The origin of the iconography is so interesting to me. Both in the origin story, as well as pondering what really went down. And also just how beloved the Virgin is here. But not just any Virgin Mary. I've heard it said about Puerto Vallarta, for example, that they are not Catholic. They are Guadalupan. This room was dedicated to paintings recreating the original poncho miracle. The oldest painting here is from 1698.

Historic painting depicting the miraculous poncho associated with the Virgin of Guadalupe — This is the first time I've seen a painting of THEE poncho itself and not just the image of the Virgin.

Black-and-white nature silkscreen prints arranged on a museum wall — In the same building, nature silkscreen prints by artist Jan Hendrix.

Plant-filled courtyard lined with small shops and upper-level balconies — This courtyard was filled with small shops and galleries AND a hair salon. I peeked in and saw a guy looking at his phone. I have a travel philosophy of taking advantage of the opportunities presented to me, even if it means veering from the original plan. So I popped in and asked if he had time to cut my bangs. If this had been a full-on haircut, I would have researched where to go. But dang, I was threatening to cut my hair with travel sewing kit scissors. There's no way he could do worse.

Stacy smiling in the courtyard after having her bangs trimmed — This will do. The señoras having lunch just outside complimented me. Haha. I think they overheard my Spanish conversation with the stylist. I imagine to their ears it sounds a little like this: ‘I need bangs cut. Is possible you cut now? I no can see.’

Large colorful abstract mural wrapping around the walls and ceiling of an arched room — Next stop, Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez El Nigromante, an art center/school. I don't understand this massive mural but it was impressive. It remains an unfinished work started in 1948 by David Alfaro Siqueiros, who is considered one of Mexico’s great muralists (up there with Diego Rivera and José Clemente Orozco). This particular mural was intended to be viewed from all angles as you move through the room. There are multiple stories as to why it was never completed. Looks like it was going to be trippy.

Historic black-and-white photograph of artists working on the mural from scaffolding — A photo in the museum of the creation of the mural. I think the photo looks straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. I want to know more about the two female characters on the left and right on the scaffolding.

Traditional-style mural painted in an arched hallway — This mural was in the hallway. A more traditional style, for sure. The internet tells me this is not a Diego Rivera mural, though it is in the same style vein. The artist here is Pedro Martínez and he may have been referencing a Mexican vampire legend as social commentary.

Coffee, a pastry, and postcards spread across a sunlit café table — And now, writing my postcards from my café perch. Soon off to find that equally elusive post office....

← All Walks